Grey shingled mansions line the coast of this busy beach off Bank Street in Harwich Port (or “The Poiht” as my buddy Kate and I call it.) You have to get there either very early or late afternoon on a sunny day if you want a parking spot in the small lot, but the effort is worth it. I find the best scallop shells here after high tide and since Bank is on the Nantucket Sound side of the Cape, the waves are quiet and calm and the waters are warmer for small children to play.
I’m still perfecting my recipe, so if anyone has tips for the perfect sauce, please send them my way. But the Hagopian version is getting pretty good, if I do say so myself! It starts with the freshest Cape littleneck clams. I get 2 dozen for 2 people. I make the fishmongers pick out the smallest ones for me because I think the larger ones are tougher and chewy. (I know I’m particular. It is part of my charm…)
Soak the clams for 15 min in cold water to expel the sand. Rinse and scrub the outer shells. Soak for another 20 minutes in cold water and drain. Start boiling water in a large pot for the linguini. Chop 4 cloves of garlic in paper thin rings. Chop 2 small shallots thin. Saute garlic and shallots and large pinch of red pepper flakes in olive oil in a large, cast iron dutch oven for 2-3 min until soft. Add 1/2 cup dry white wine and reduce for 10 minutes until thick and velvety. Season with fresh pepper, add 2 tablespoons of butter and add clams. Keep on med-high heat and cover. Set timer for 7 min. At the same time, add 1/2 lb linguini with 2 large tablespoons of salt to the boiling water pot. Chop fresh parsley for garnish. Drain linguini after 7 min or when perfectly al dente. Plate, and add the open clams, garlic and sauce. Top with chopped parsley.
Fog Happens. It just does. And frequently. It can roll in and out faster than a blink or linger for hours and days. It’s simply a reminder that you are in Massachusetts. (If you wanted smiles, roses and sushine 24/7 head to Florida or Cali!) I never mind the fog and clouds. It turns into a good day to curl up with a book and have a warm bowl of chowdah.
The Cape is covered in untouched, preserved land. Each of the towns have nature reserves including acres within the National Seashore. My friend Kate introduced me to hiking along the many trails. She is my sweet buddy and self-proclaimed tree-hugger. Our favorite hikes are from the National Seashore Salt Pond center in Eastham to Coast Guard beach, and trails along the Mass Audubon in Wellfleet to the bay. You weave through marshes, oceans and woods to find hidden treasures along the way.
This is the magic time on the beach. Most of the young families leave to get their kids to dinner and bedtime, while we stay and enjoy quiet tranquility. The hum of the day fades while the light casts a soft, warm glow. Most of the beaches lift their hefty parking fees after 4 as well including one of my favorite beaches, Nauset Beach in Orleans. Simply golden hours.
I could eat them at least 2-3 times a week without tiring. Easily. You can’t visit Cape Cod without devouring a whole steamed lobster or at least have a roll. It is impossible, sacrilegious even. I prefer a lobster dinner at home instead of in a restaurant, although there are plenty of shacks at every corner. I’d rather consume the crustaceans with a cold beer in the privacy of my back porch, where no one bears witness to the messy carnage. I suck the poor things dry without a scrap left, not even in the head! The fish markets sell them steamed and cracked at no charge, but they run on Cape time and close at 6 or 7. (Hard for this NYC girl to eat at that early…) I prefer cooking them yourself in a big steamer, allowing for a late, grazing dinner after a long day at the beach.
Favorite markets for the freshest fish and lobster include: George’s, Chatham Fish and Lobster, Nauset Fish and Lobster Pool and Salty Lou’s, who sells wholesale at all the farmers’ markets.
It is July and a beautiful time of year in Harwich when the Cape Cod Lavender Farm is in full bloom. Acres of violet and indigo blossoms burst in the summer sun with bees buzzing by, dipping into their regal flowers. The farm is hidden along an unpaved path, but worth the trek up to the fields and farmhouse. They sell the most lusciously fragrant plants, sachets and bath products. I planted a Provence variety in our garden 5 years ago and it is now as tall as I am. The sandy Cape soil is perfect for lavender to thrive.
Early morning before the crowds descend with their towels, toys and picnics, the beach is a quiet respite waiting for the day to begin. I’ve discovered several beaches that have early morning yoga, my favorite is at Chatham Light. Starting at 7:30 am at Lighthouse Beach, an hour kripalu class begins by reaching up to the sky, feeling the breeze on your face, and the sound of waves moving in and out with your breath. It is a very gentle beginner class happening daily from Memorial Day to Labor Day. I often stay after to walk the hooking stretch of land that curves where the Atlantic meets the Nantucket Sound. Crazy wave patterns happen here, creating funky sandbars that change constantly with the wind and weather.
View a full listing of beach yoga locations.
George’s is a Harwich institution. Fresh fish = George’s. They have everything from made-to-order lobster rolls and fish fry, to clambakes and oysters. I visit daily and gaze in the cases to imagine what is for the night’s dinner. I can tell what was just brought in on the line by the glisten and shine of the moisture, and color of the blood vein. The selection is never easy to make. They also have the sweetest staff, including a boy who has been waiting on me for years and almost certainly breaks labor laws being so young working day in and day out. He knows more about fish than anyone. And it is really good.
capescape: one woman chronicles a peninsula 